Quail and remoulade

Quail with remoulade
This was my second visit to The French House since Neil Borthwick took over the kitchen and I know it won’t be my last. The food is simple but perfectly pitched , its very simplicity belying the skill that it takes to cook the perfect Barnsley chop or to roast this quail to moist pinkness.
The room is small, almost club like and I can think of few places I like more. The French House

Paris Brest

Paris Brest
My pudding ,  both times at The French House, has been this barely sweet, light as air Paris Breast. Filled with whipped cream and caramelised hazelnuts a pool of dark chocolate fills the centre , ready to spill out and delight you as you make the first cut. Bliss. The French House

Breakfast Pigs

Breakfast Pigs from Turner and George
One of the very best things that has happened in Islington over the past 2 years is the arrival of new butchers and fishmongers. My favourite is Turner and George for many reasons: Their beautiful listed shop, the extensive choice of meat, the lovely butchers including Sophie, a slip of a girl and a phenomenal butcher, their willingness to give Chico endless bones and the sheer quality of the meat. These are my favourite from the range of sausages they make.

Gravad lax

Home made Gravad Lax
I hadn’t made this recipe for several years but a friend came to supper and I decided to give it another go. I’m very pleased I did as it was both simple to make and delicious to eat. You need very fresh salmon about 700gm, 2 tablespoons each salt and brown sugar, a handful of dill finely chopped and gin or vodka to moisten. Make a paste slather it onto the fish wrap tightly in film the place in a dish , in the fridge, for 24-36 hrs turning occasionally. slice thinly and save with Dill and honey sauce.

Lemon risotto with crisp fried artichokes

Lemon Risotto with crisp fried Artichoke
I have a flat in Malaga and travel back and forth through the cooler months. As I tend to keep a selection of clothes and toiletries there I sometimes don’t take a cue but if I do you will usually find I bring back vegetables , especially the small artichokes that grow locally. Lemon risotto is a favourite of mine: light and elegant a true store cupboard recipe. I cut the artichokes down to eh hearts, slice them thinly then fry them in olive oil until they are crisp. It’s very good.

Grilled vegetables

Grilled vegetables at Parrilla de Mane
My first lunch in Malaga , this time , was at a small restaurant in the lee of the cathedral that serve4s grilled meats and a little fish. I try to eat at least some vegetables with every meal and this selection of fresh produced , cooked over coal was delicious. La Parrilla de Mane